Waistbands for Changing Bodies
Here's a few ways to add some stretch to a waistline without compromising the style lines........comfort without bulky gathers.
I like clothes to be comfortable, but don't want loose fitting clothes with bulky elastic casings round my waist. There's so many lovely designs with a more fitted profile....if only they adjusted to fit my ever changing waistline.
I've been experimenting with using elastic for some added comfort and even one way to be able to adjust the waist measurement.
Knitted Fabrics
Here's a really quick way to add elastic to the top of knitted skirts and trousers.
If you're making something quite fitted you can take in the vertical seams at the waist tapering them out to the hip....however the waist must stretch over your hips.
Cut elastic to fit your waist and join the ends. Quarter the elastic and match to the top of the garment. Overlock or zig zag stitch the elastic to the right side of the fabric. Turn the elastic to the inside and use a small zig zag along the other edge.
There's a few other ways of adding elastic to stretch garments in ACTIVEWEAR
Woven Fabrics
This works well for garments that have a zip, but you want a bit of ease for comfort.
Add small amount of extra width at the side seams.
Cut elastic to fit your waist.
Place the elastic on the right side of the garment. DO NOT stretch the elastic across the front and back. Just stretch it around the sides. Overlock or zig zag to the fabric. Turn to the inside and straight stitch through the fabric and the elastic at each seam(stitch in the ditch) to stop the elastic rolling.
Adjustable Waist
This method uses buttonhole elastic inside a straight waistband. It makes a much more comfortable waistband and you can alter the fit!
You'll need about 40cm buttonhole elastic and a strong, non fusible waistband interfacing. I've used a non woven I had in the cupboard, however petersham works really well. I have black and white straight petersham in my shop
Add a small amount of extra width to the side seams and the same amount to the waistband.
I was making McCall's 8292 that has a pocket below the yoke. I decided I wanted the front waist to be straight as far as the pocket and similar across the back. I cut 3 pieces of strong interfacing(it needs to be strong enough for the elastic to be sewn too when stretched... petersham is perfect) .... one piece needs to be long enough to give the overlap for a buttonhole or hook and eye.
THIS IS REALY IMPORTANT.................cut the waistband level with the end of the front interfacing... I cut mine in line with the pocket. Add at least 5/8" seam allowance to both edges of the waistband.
Stitch this seam leaving a gap that'l be on the inside layer wide enough for the elastic to pass through. reverse each side of the gap for strength.
Cut 2 pieces of buttonhole elastic about 2 inches (25mm) loner than the distance between the front and back interfacing...............if the waistband measures 40" and the 3 pieces of interfacing measure 32" you need 8" of elastic plus 4" cut into 2 pieces......I'd suggest cutting it a bit longer as it's easy to make the elastic shorter later....
Sew the waistband to the top of the garment.
Centre the back interfacing with the centre back of the garment.
Sew the interfacing to the seam allowance with the edge on the stitches, reverse at both ends. See the above picture.
Sew the front interfacing pieces to the front waistabnd seam allowances.
Sew both ends of the front waistband.
I top stitched along the top edge of the waistband through all layers, keeping the elastic out of the way.
Feed the ends of the elastic out through the gap in the waistband seams.
Finish the other waistband edge, either turn it in or overlock the edge ....sew on the edge of the band or just below.
Sew a button to both front waistabands. If you use your machine the stitches will show on the rightside. You can sew by hand making sure you sew through the interfacing.
Now you have a comfortable waistband and more importantly one you can make larger and smaller depending on how much extra you added at the side seams.
Feeling comfortable..... but might have to shorten them....